Archive for the 'Stuff' Category
On the morning after winning The Oakley ASL Bwa I went over to fox sports for a couple of seedy early morning interviews. Here’s the one for Fuel Tv airing currently..No comments
This clip is taking the piss more than anything.. Heres what my friends and i have to surf most of the time. Waist high poo, and its about 10 degrees celsius, as is the water. But its just us out, so we had fun. And thats what its about hey !!
“Sally” is a new project put together by Simon Treweek and Nick Damen. Its premiering on the Saturday 6th October at The Peacock Theatre in Salamanca Hobart… Tickets are $15 on the door and are limited. Doors open at 6:30pm so make sure your on time. Door prizes and DVD giveaways yeeeewNo comments
After two months out of the water, finally got a taste of that salty juice the last few days….. On a nice new HaydenShapes “Hypto Crypto”, a little wedge a short drive from my house provided a few barely surfable bowls before the sun went down. All photos Stu Gibson…….
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I try to live my life , to make sure im in a position so i never miss a swell at what my mates and i call “the most amazing place on earth”.
I remember being on a surf trip in the Mentawai Islands a few years ago. Here i am in a tropical paradise. Surfing in boardshorts, surrounded by beauty, clear blue skies, travelling with a good crew of mates and scoring 6-8 ft HT’s. For nearly all surfers this was as dreamy as it gets. And for a while there i was also loving that dream. But one problem, i had access to the internet. And me being me, i couldn’t help myself. I had to see what was going on swell wise back home. As soon as i noticed the huge blob of purple and yellow heading towards Tassie, my heart sunk. I couldn’t control what i was feeling. No matter how good or how many times you’ve surfed your favourite wave, when you miss a pumping session, it cuts deep.
When last weeks swell started shaping up things seemed to be heading in a positive direction. My knee injury got the all clear from the “doc”,well not really, but thats how it translated in my head. All i could think about was surfing shippies, it was like nothing was going to stop me. On the lead up to the swell, i tried to use my knee in all different situations to simulate the pressure id put on it while surfing. It hurt a bit, but i still had confidence.
Who was i fooling? the night before the swell, my knee was well and truly buckled. I couldn’t even stand on one knee and support myself and the pain was excruciating. So now I was in two minds about it all, I thought I could sit a home and not put myself through the torture of watching it, or I could go down and try get some clips of my mates. I chose the latter, and headed south for two heavy days of Shippies action.
I saw the swell coming a week and a half before it was due to hit. There’ve been a few swells over the last three weeks, each swinging a little more to the southwest. When i saw this system fire up down near Antarctica i kept an eye on it. Jack Scollard had been wanting a redemption session out at ships since it busted his eardrum 8 months ago, so gave him the heads up and the kid flew into town the day before the swell..
On wednesday 30th may 2012 Chiza (local photog) and myself left the boat ramp in our little inflatable 13footer and proceeded to make our way to the shippies channel. All the swell indicators on the way round were firing up, thats when i started to wonder what id gotten myself into. I was going to have to sit there and watch my favourite wave pump out some of the biggest, meanest barrels it had to offer.
I tried to change my mindset. I concentrated on the filming aspect, i really wanted to get some clips for the boys. All my mates were out there, and they were fucking charging. At times it was almost uncomfortable watching. No one was making the waves. Every set that came through, Chiz and i would sit there cringing and silently hoping our friends would resurface after each wipeout. It was one of the most epic things vie witnessed. But to tell you the truth, i don’t think i could do it again. It hurt so much to have to sit there and watch. I mind surfed every single wave that broke that day.
On that wednesday i witnessed some gnarly shit, the worst involving two of my best mates. Just after midday Chiz and i started tucking into our lunch between sets when all of a sudden we seen the horizon go black. The crew on the rocks started whistling and the skis out the back started positioning themselves. When the first wave came through, it hit the reef on the weirdest angle, with 0 percent chance of it being makable. Jimmy McKean took that thing on without hesitation. As he dropped over the first ledge the thing contorted into the definition of evil. He proceeded to go below sea level, then becoming engulfed in the wave, he was in the oceans hands and old “Poseidon” had a wild ride for him. But we knew the next wave was the big one. I seen Zadda (Alex Zawadski) let go of the rope and start dropping into the beast, but at the same time i was trying to see if i could find Jimmy. Zads wave seemed to just grow bigger and bigger. He hit the step halfway down the face and as the board tweaked out sideways, i knew she was game over. As Zadda tumbled into the most horrific wipeout id ever witnessed, i looked towards the rocks and just got a glimpse of Jimmy surface for a few seconds before copping the two storey wall of whitewater from Zaddas wave square on the head. Those two wave put both the boys in hospital with head, knee and groin injuries.
The next day was smaller, but still throwing out 12ft clean bombs and all the boys cleaned up getting some amazing pits and also a few more really horrific wipeouts. The two days of surfing down there produced more injuries and carnage than everything in the past combined. Im thankful none of my mates got really seriously hurt. And although it hurt like hell to not be out there trading bombs with the boys, this injury has given me a new fire inside. Ive set new goals and want to reach new heights. Its all about finding a positive way through any obstacle. I know where im heading, and “fuck” i cant wait to get there yeeeeeeeeewww
When i was living on the Mornington Peninsula this was one of my favourite places to surf. Yes its a shit wave, super sharky and never breaks in summer. But i always get good vibes when out there. No one surfs it, not many people even check it and its that isolated feeling i thrive on.
This day every surf spot in the area was either howling onshore or crowded, so to be able to enjoy a few solo sessions with just a coupla mates on the rocks was all time. Sunrise and Sunset sessions at the blowhole with a quick midday beachie session.
It was filmed on a shitty Sony handycam with no tripod so quality is crap. But thanks heaps to Eddie, Shanza and Rigga for sitting in the cold and capturing some moments.
Surfboard of choice was, Haydenshapes “Shred Sled King” quad fin set up
DEEP FOREST – Sweet Lullaby
If your in Tassie and surf, then you wont wanna miss this. Follow the link, buy a ticket and go see Tim Bonython’s new creation…… The best swells of last years season including big mean shippies and chopes….