Archive for the 'Shipstern' Category
30th March 2013 was the day after i turned 30 years of age. It was also a real fun day at shippies spent with my friends. Here are some clips thrown together. Water footage was shot with an Ion camera. I did get a few better clips but saving for a project im working with. “Ion The Barrel”.
land footage shot by Misty Shipway and Mick Cannings. Thanks misty and mick
A clip from home thanks to Treeksy and JyJo. On the skuff tv website this clip has been viewed well over a million times. Awesome work to all involvedNo comments
Well no it wasnt all time any of the days, but to score it three times in a week after spending over two months out of the water, makes me a pretty happy lad.
Monday was quite a solid swell around 10-15ft, but sets were slow and the wind wasnt ideal, making many chandeliers. Tyler and Danny got the bombs.
Tuesday was smaller around 10ft, but cleaner and some great paddle waves.
The swell then stayed a fun size all week for the local beachies and on saturday we got another spike and back down to shippies we went. It was 6-8ft super clean with clear blue skies. A really beautiful day, but definitely woulda been nice if it was a bit bigger. Follow these links to see what went down…
Andrew Chisholm’s shots from Monday and Tuesday
Stuart Gibson’s Shots from Saturday
Shot below – A nice one from the Tuesday session Photo: Barry and Eliz http://www.justgosurfing.blogspot.com/
I try to live my life , to make sure im in a position so i never miss a swell at what my mates and i call “the most amazing place on earth”.
I remember being on a surf trip in the Mentawai Islands a few years ago. Here i am in a tropical paradise. Surfing in boardshorts, surrounded by beauty, clear blue skies, travelling with a good crew of mates and scoring 6-8 ft HT’s. For nearly all surfers this was as dreamy as it gets. And for a while there i was also loving that dream. But one problem, i had access to the internet. And me being me, i couldn’t help myself. I had to see what was going on swell wise back home. As soon as i noticed the huge blob of purple and yellow heading towards Tassie, my heart sunk. I couldn’t control what i was feeling. No matter how good or how many times you’ve surfed your favourite wave, when you miss a pumping session, it cuts deep.
When last weeks swell started shaping up things seemed to be heading in a positive direction. My knee injury got the all clear from the “doc”,well not really, but thats how it translated in my head. All i could think about was surfing shippies, it was like nothing was going to stop me. On the lead up to the swell, i tried to use my knee in all different situations to simulate the pressure id put on it while surfing. It hurt a bit, but i still had confidence.
Who was i fooling? the night before the swell, my knee was well and truly buckled. I couldn’t even stand on one knee and support myself and the pain was excruciating. So now I was in two minds about it all, I thought I could sit a home and not put myself through the torture of watching it, or I could go down and try get some clips of my mates. I chose the latter, and headed south for two heavy days of Shippies action.
I saw the swell coming a week and a half before it was due to hit. There’ve been a few swells over the last three weeks, each swinging a little more to the southwest. When i saw this system fire up down near Antarctica i kept an eye on it. Jack Scollard had been wanting a redemption session out at ships since it busted his eardrum 8 months ago, so gave him the heads up and the kid flew into town the day before the swell..
On wednesday 30th may 2012 Chiza (local photog) and myself left the boat ramp in our little inflatable 13footer and proceeded to make our way to the shippies channel. All the swell indicators on the way round were firing up, thats when i started to wonder what id gotten myself into. I was going to have to sit there and watch my favourite wave pump out some of the biggest, meanest barrels it had to offer.
I tried to change my mindset. I concentrated on the filming aspect, i really wanted to get some clips for the boys. All my mates were out there, and they were fucking charging. At times it was almost uncomfortable watching. No one was making the waves. Every set that came through, Chiz and i would sit there cringing and silently hoping our friends would resurface after each wipeout. It was one of the most epic things vie witnessed. But to tell you the truth, i don’t think i could do it again. It hurt so much to have to sit there and watch. I mind surfed every single wave that broke that day.
On that wednesday i witnessed some gnarly shit, the worst involving two of my best mates. Just after midday Chiz and i started tucking into our lunch between sets when all of a sudden we seen the horizon go black. The crew on the rocks started whistling and the skis out the back started positioning themselves. When the first wave came through, it hit the reef on the weirdest angle, with 0 percent chance of it being makable. Jimmy McKean took that thing on without hesitation. As he dropped over the first ledge the thing contorted into the definition of evil. He proceeded to go below sea level, then becoming engulfed in the wave, he was in the oceans hands and old “Poseidon” had a wild ride for him. But we knew the next wave was the big one. I seen Zadda (Alex Zawadski) let go of the rope and start dropping into the beast, but at the same time i was trying to see if i could find Jimmy. Zads wave seemed to just grow bigger and bigger. He hit the step halfway down the face and as the board tweaked out sideways, i knew she was game over. As Zadda tumbled into the most horrific wipeout id ever witnessed, i looked towards the rocks and just got a glimpse of Jimmy surface for a few seconds before copping the two storey wall of whitewater from Zaddas wave square on the head. Those two wave put both the boys in hospital with head, knee and groin injuries.
The next day was smaller, but still throwing out 12ft clean bombs and all the boys cleaned up getting some amazing pits and also a few more really horrific wipeouts. The two days of surfing down there produced more injuries and carnage than everything in the past combined. Im thankful none of my mates got really seriously hurt. And although it hurt like hell to not be out there trading bombs with the boys, this injury has given me a new fire inside. Ive set new goals and want to reach new heights. Its all about finding a positive way through any obstacle. I know where im heading, and “fuck” i cant wait to get there yeeeeeeeeewww
If your in Tassie and surf, then you wont wanna miss this. Follow the link, buy a ticket and go see Tim Bonython’s new creation…… The best swells of last years season including big mean shippies and chopes….
Jack McCoy’s new film, “A Deeper Shade Of Blue”, is premiering in cinemas around Australia this week. Make sure you go check it out. Its an amazing film giving you the whole evolution of surfing. The cinematography is next level and the filmhas something to suit every generation of surfer. I feel honoured that Jack asked me to be a part of this production. Hope everyone enjoys it.
The last shippies swell which hit at the end of October was an amazing day. Due to the wind coming from the east there wasnt many makeable waves, but there were some solid sets. Here’s a frame grab from one of those sets, which Tim Bonython sent to me last night……..1 comment